The metal is part of the form. It affects the colour, weight and surface of a piece, as well as how it changes with wear.

For bespoke jewellery, we work with 14k and 18k gold, sterling silver and platinum. We will explore the choice with you, considering the design, stones and how you intend to wear it.

Gold

We work with yellow, white and rose gold in 14k and 18k.

Carat describes the proportion of pure gold in an alloy. 24k is pure gold; 18k contains 75% gold, while 14k contains approximately 58.5%. The remaining metals influence the colour and properties of the alloy.

In our solid gold pieces, the gold alloy runs throughout the piece, rather than forming a layer on the surface.

In the yellow and rose gold alloys we use, 18k has a warmer, richer colour than 14k.

Karat alone does not determine how a finished piece will wear. The alloy, construction, setting and surface finish also matter.

White gold

White gold is a gold alloy, not platinum. Its natural tone varies with the alloy. It is not necessarily the bright, cool white often associated with it.

A rhodium finish creates a brighter surface. This is a plating, not the colour of the gold beneath it. With wear, particularly on rings, the plating gradually wears away and the underlying tone becomes visible. It can be renewed professionally.

Unplated white gold leaves the alloy’s natural colour visible. We will discuss both options as part of the design process.

Sterling silver

Sterling silver brings a cool tone to sculptural forms. Its surface changes with handling and exposure, and it can develop tarnish over time.

Cleaning and polishing can restore brightness. Whether to preserve a darker surface or keep it bright depends on the intended finish of the piece.

For stone-set designs, we will consider whether sterling silver is appropriate for the setting and intended wear.

Platinum

Platinum is naturally pale and dense, giving a piece a noticeable weight. It does not need rhodium plating to create its pale colour.

With wear, its surface develops fine marks that can give it a soft patina. Professional refinishing can restore a more polished appearance where suitable for the design.

Choosing your metal

For bespoke pieces set with fine gemstones, our usual starting point is solid gold or platinum. Sterling silver may also be considered where it suits the form, setting and intended use.

There is no single choice for every piece. We will guide you towards the metal and finish that work with your design.

Caring for your piece

Care depends on the complete object, not only its metal. Stones, settings and surface treatments can require different approaches.

We will provide care guidance for your finished piece. Contact us before using cleaning products or polishing a surface if you are unsure of its finish.